2013 Departures: May 18 and September 14

If asked what Northern Spain & Portugal evoke in the traveler’s mind, many would conjure up Gehry’s glittering Guggenheim, San Sebastian’s cult of culinary superstars, Santiago de Compostela’s legendary pilgrimage road and likely port wine. Additional compelling facets of this regional Iberian jewel reveal themselves upon further reflection, from eight UNESCO World Heritage sites to over half a dozen protected Domination of Origin wines & cheeses.

And while world class art & architecture, fine wines, Michelin-starred restaurants and a bevy of UNESCO world heritage sites are indeed beguiling features of this remarkable region, it is the fascinating personality beneath the surface which captivates & transforms the traveler fortunate enough to experience it.

It is the fierce independence of the region’s proud people, the unbreakable bonds of sacred social institutions, millennial myths, rituals & traditions, the richness and diversity of its autochthonous languages, and the supreme importance placed on family, friends and food that leave their indelible mark on us. This is the hidden world of Northern Portugal & Spain that we have the honor to share with you, our faithful family of fellow Xplorers.

• Porto: Behind the Tiles.  Join the entrepreneurs behind some re-purposed historic buildings in Porto for a glimpse into the renaissance taking shape behind formerly forlorn façades.

• Dining with Dirk. Meet Dirk Van der Neipoort, a 5^th generation iconoclast of the Douro Valley who remains genuine, grounded & accessible, despite his growing fame and rock-star status amongst wine aficionados worldwide.

• Daily Bread. Visit Luciano & Georgina, a salt-of-the-earth husband and wife team who craft unbelievably dense, moist & crusty bread in their turn-of-the-century wood-burning oven.

• Masks & Millennial Traditions. Enter the workshops of Tras os Montes mask makers who maintain this border region’s vibrant festival traditions predating the founding of Portugal.

• Ancestral Lunch. Meet Jose Paolo Mesquita, a multilingual descendent of a noble Portuguese family whose ancestral estate has been in the same family for 32 generations.

• Culture Klatch. Swap stories, questions and cultural perspectives with local, English-speaking Portuguese friends at a home-hosted cocktail evening in Guimarães.

• Flames of Friendship. Engage all five senses during a foliada & queimada, a mystical folk-tradition dating to Pagan times & still thriving amongst Galician friends and family of today.

• Pintxo Prodigy. Savor N. Spain’s justly famous, bite-sized pintxos at the side of a prize-winning pintxo chef as he crafts miniature masterpieces to our gustatory delight.

• Heritage Mountain. Share history and a home-hosted afternoon with a former Basque engineer who, after learning that his family’s pig-farming roots date back to at least 1575, re-dedicated his life to developing a market for the region’s last remaining heritage breed.

• Savory Society. Enjoy a rare invitation inside one of San Sebastian’s most traditional, private gastronomic societies (called txokos in the Basque language). Cook, drink & chat the afternoon away with members who include the patriarch of modern Basque cuisine.

You are met upon arrival to Porto and taken to our charming pension, a lovingly renovated, seven-room historic townhouse in central Porto.

Over a welcome drink, meet your fellow travelers and the impassioned entrepreneurs behind several historic buildings in Porto’s atmospheric urban core for an insider’s glimpse into the architectural & cultural renaissance taking shape behind formerly forlorn façades. Finish with a family-style welcome dinner at a reclaimed locale with loads of local flavor. (Meals: D)

Lodging for two nights in Porto is at the cozy, rustically charming Pensão Favorita (or similar) a renovated, historic townhouse in central Porto. For a preview visit: www.pensaofavorita.pt

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The fact that Porto’s historic center has a UNESCO world heritage designation will come as no surprise during a walking tour this morning. The town evokes a frayed, enduring charm and its rich history echoes off its narrow, cobblestone streets and teetering townhouses.

Our walk takes us to iconic landmarks and well as hidden, photogenic corners of Porto, from the Sunday bird-market to the Bataría da Vitoria lookout point, from the Clérigos Church with its magnificent bell tower, to the more than 20,000 azulejos (Portuguese tiles) at the São Bento train station, from the narrow Rua das Flores, to the crumbling, atmospheric riverside district of Cais Ribeira.

This afternoon, switch from historic & densely urban to modern & expansively verdant with a visit and privately guided tour to the highly acclaimed Serralves Museum of Modern Art and its extensive, shady gardens.

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After a sinuous drive along the winding, vertigo-inducing & visually spectacular roads of the UNESCO heritage designated upper Douro Valley, arrive at Quinta Napoles, home to Dirk Van der Neipoort and his award-winning wines.

Dirk, who speaks seven languages, is a 5^th generation iconoclast of the Douro, yet remains genuine, grounded & accessible, despite his growing fame and rock-star status amongst wine aficionados worldwide. As Dirk is often traveling abroad or attending to production, most often one of his winemakers accompanies us on a tour, sharing his vision for crafting world-class wines. We then head to the communal Neipoort dining table for a family-style lunch paired with his world-class wines and port.

Continue this afternoon to Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros our relaxing base in the bucolic Douro Valley. Take a swim, a leisurely walk through the trellised vineyards or simply relax with a glass of complimentary port as you admire the sunset with stunning views from one of the many terraces of our artfully restored manor house lodge. (Meals: B, L, D)

Lodging for three nights in the Douro (Pinhão) is at the magnificently restored 18^th century manor house Visconde de Chanceleiros (or similar). For a preview visit: www.chanceleiros.com

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Start the day with a visit with Luciano & Georgina, a husband and wife, salt-of-the-earth baking team who craft unbelievably dense, moist & crusty bread in their turn-of-the-century wood-burning oven.

Perhaps there is no better vantage point to admire the magnificent Douro Valley than from out on the river. So this morning board a private rabelo, the historic, flat-bottomed boats originally used to transport young port wine from its production center in the Douro Valley to the storage warehouses of Vila Nova de Gaia, across from Porto. Our trip takes us past some of the most scenic bends of the Douro River.

This afternoon, meet the dynamic winemaker of the small, family-run Quinta do Infantado which has been in the family’s hands since the end of the 19^th century. João is known for his colorful personality and for making some of the finest port in the Valley, which we’ll have a chance to put to the test over a family-style lunch at the winery.

Late this afternoon an invigorating 5 kilometer (3.1 mile) hike has been arranged to heighten your enjoyment of the dramatically undulating, terraced landscapes leading steeply down to the Douro River far below. Join Ricardo, a local guide and avid hiker, on a winding route of majestic beauty, passing historic quintas, endemic flora and centuries old terrace walls along the way.

Weather permitting, Ursula & her team prepare a BBQ for you. (Meals: B, L, D)

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Our drive today takes us to Tras os Montes (which translates to behind the mountains). Indeed it is one of the brashest, least explored corners of Portugal. Along with olive, cork and chestnut, this area is renowned for its millennial traditions, in particular, its vibrant winter festivals.

Our special guest today is Antonio, an anthropologist who has published the most authoritative text on Tras os Montes masks, costumes & festival traditions. Antonio accompanies us to the workshops of the area’s most respected mask makers, including Amavel, considered one of Portugal’s most talented sculptors of folk masks. (Meals: B, L, D)

Our journey this morning takes us northwest into the Minho province of Portugal, to the 2012 European Capital of Culture, Guimarães, whose historic center is designated a UNESCO world heritage site.

After stopping at the pousada to drop bags and freshen-up, continue to nearby Casa Sezim, a secluded country estate belonging to the same family since 1376 (32 generations!). Jose Paolo Mesquita, one of the family’s multilingual descendents, is our host for lunch at his ancestral home, Before eating, there is time to admire the early 19^th century painted panels in the public areas depicting scenes from the New World and to wander the gardens of this country estate, known for its award-winning vinho verde.

Return to Guimaraes, considered the cradle city of Portugal, for an afternoon walk to explore of the town’s compact medieval center.

This evening, swap stories, questions and cultural perspectives with local, English-speaking Portuguese friends at a home-hosted cocktail party. (Meals: B, L + cocktail party)

Lodging for one night in Guimarães is at Pousada de Oliveira an intimate, historic lodge on one of Portugal’s most enchanting medieval squares (or similar). For a preview: www.pousadas.pt

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Our route today takes us through one of the loveliest small towns in Portugal. Viana do Castelo is an elegant seaside town considered the folklore capital of Portugal and renowned for its lace embroidery. We arrive at the peak of market day activity, experiencing Viana do Castelo at its vibrant best.

Pontevedra, Spain makes an ideal stop to stretch legs en route and to break for a chef’s tasting menu lunch on one of the town’s prettiest squares, Praza da Leña.

Our final destination this afternoon is Santiago de Compostela, best known as the culmination point for one of the world’s most important pilgrimage routes. In fact, both the pilgrimage route to Santiago, as well as the town’s historic center, have earned UNESCO world heritage status. The symbol most frequently associated with both Santiago de Compostela and the pilgrim’s way is the scallop shell, which abounds in this region of Galicia. (Meals: B, L)

Lodging for three nights in Santiago de Compostela is at Hotel Altair an artfully designed, 11-room boutique hotel sensitively crafted within the stone walls of an historic building adjacent to the town’s pedestrian center. For a preview visit: www.altairhotel.net

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The triumvirate allures in Santiago de Compostela are powerful enough to conquer even the most jaded world traveler. First there is the Cathedral, with its opulent baroque exterior, its sublime Romanesque Pórtico de la Gloria and its imposing towers. Add to that the strikingly well preserved town center, were the echoes of history bounce off its flagstone alleys and medieval squares. Finally, there is a large university here, which lends Santiago a youthful energy which plays perfect counterpoint to the town’s storied past. This morning explore the Cathedral and the town center accompanied by an expert local guide.

After lunch, enjoy an afternoon at leisure in Santiago. Save some energy for tonight, as there are special plans this evening.

Amongst Galician family & friends, a cherished, timeless tradition dating back to Celtic times is the queimada, often performed at festive gatherings to cement bonds of friendship. Tonight we are invited for an informal evening of Galician folk song and dance, together with a handful of local enthusiasts. The evening ends with a queimada and while it would spoil the fun to give away all the details, you’re sure to engage all five senses while participating J (Meals: B, L, D)

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This morning visit the extensive gardens of two of Galicia’s finest pazos (noble homes). At Pazo de Santa Cruz de Rivadulla, the huge tree ferns, 500-year old olive trees, waterfalls, ponds and moss of a thousand different shades cloak these gardens in a mystical aura as if the fairies, witches and other forest creatures of legends could still inhabit their shady confines.

In contrast to Rivadulla, the nearby Pazo de Oca has been called the Galician Versailles. The gardens have a more geometric French style. There are boxwood, hidden trails, dark corners, small chapels, a mill & fabulous granite ponds with huge boats that float full of floral burdens.

The afternoon is at your leisure to enjoy back in Santiago de Compostela. (Meals: B, L)

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There is no way to avoid this, so let’s put it out there right up front – today is by far the longest driving day of our trip, with 5 1/2 hours of road time. This does not include several stops we’ll make along the way, including visits to the Pre-Romanesque churches of Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo near Oviedo, which have earned UNESCO world heritage status.

Arrival at our family-owned organic farm and B&B will be especially welcome after the long drive. We’ve arranged for an (optional) 2.5 km walk through nearby meadows and along a stream, ostensibly to see the Santa Marina chapel, but in reality to stretch stiff legs and to delve fully into the relaxing, rolling splendor of the Asturias countryside. If there is good visibility, the dramatic Picos de Europa mountain range is visible in the distance.

Our home-cooked dinner is a locavore’s delight, with much of the menu coming straight from the farm and the rest coming from small, local producers. (Meals: B, L, D)

Lodging for one night in Asturias is at Posada del Valle (or similar) an organic, working farm and country B&B with stunning mountain views. For a preview: www.posadadelvalle.com

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As you’ll be in no hurry to leave our bucolic base this morning, we’ve arranged for another, relatively easy circular walk along country tracks, paths and lanes from our B&B down to the nearby town of Arriondas, a round trip of 4.5 kms (just under 3 miles). For those who wish to walk down to town, but not back up to our lodge, transport will be available for the return.

By midday, we continue towards Santillana del Mar, to visit the Altamira Cave Museum. The remarkable Paleolithic cave art represented in the Altamira cave has earned UNESCO recognition as the apogee of the Paleolithic cave art that developed across Europe from 35,000 to 11,000 BC.

We break for lunch in nearby Santillana del Mar, yet another of Northern Spain’s effusively atmospheric medieval towns.  From here, Bilbao is only 90 minutes away. (Meals: B, L)

Lodging for two nights in Bilbao is at Hotel Miro (or similar) a small city hotel with understated style, a clean, modern design and a brilliant location. For a preview, visit: www.hotelmiro.com

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We’ve all heard the term “Bilbao effect” applied to cities that strive to break free from their industrial pasts into brighter, art-filled futures. While often attempted, few if any cities have matched Bilbao’s remarkable transformation. Our guided walk & boat trip on the Nervion River today allow us the ability to do some time travel of a sort, experiencing both remnants of Bilbao’s industrial past as well as highlights of its art, architectural & culinary rebirth, all of which have made it one of the most talked about cities in the world.

Of course we wouldn’t dare come to Bilbao without exploring the Guggenheim, but first we have your experience the well designed, yet often overlooked Museum of Fine Arts whose collection of Basque sculptors is particularly worthy of appreciation.

Architectural highlights (in addition to the Guggenheim) include Bilbao engineering marvels from the late 19^th as well as the late 20^th centuries, from the UNESCO designated Vizcaya Bridge (1893) to Santiago Calatrava’s Zubizuri Bridge (1997).

Take a culinary break in our daylong explorations to savor N. Spain’s justly famous, bite-sized pintxos at the side of a prize-winning pintxo chef as he crafts miniature masterpieces for our gustatory delight. (Meals: B, L)

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From post-modern Bilbao, drive back into Basque history today by visiting two of this region’s most powerful historic symbols. First, Guernica (or Gernika in the Basque language) site of the infamous bombing raid on a market day in 1937 by Nazi Germany in support of Franco.

Our next visit is to Oñati, in the western folds of the Aizkorri mountain range to visit the Sanctuary of Arantzazu, erected to honor the Basque Country’s patron saint and whose daring reconstruction in the 1950’s was led by two of the Basque region’s most universally acclaimed artists: Eduardo Chillida and Jorge Oteiza. (Meals: B, L)

Optional evening: Enjoy a fun, informal meal at a traditional Basque cider house, where patrons enthusiastically line-up with their glasses when the chef yells “txotx” indicating that a stream of effervescent cider is to be released from the barrel. Note: do not wear your best shoes tonight!

Lodging for three nights in Bidania is at the peaceful Iriarte Juaregia a gorgeously restored 17^th century country palace. For a preview, visit: www.iriartejauregia.com

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The Basque coast and San Sebastian is less than 30 minutes away from our base in Beasaín. This morning, head to San Sebastian for a stroll in its Belle Epoque historic center, including Mount Igueldo, La Concha beach and the town’s colorful old quarter.

A highlight of our time in this town famed for having more Michelin-starred restaurants per capita than any other city in the world, is to enter the Luis Irízar professional culinary school, where for years the dearly beloved “maestro of the masters” taught many of the superstar chefs whose Michelin stars now make San Sebastian shimmer. Pedro Subijana (Akelare) is perhaps the most renowned of Luis Irízar’s lauded alumni. Meet Luis’ daughter Visi who runs the school, for an insider’s glance into the heart of the “Nueva Cocina Vasca” (New Basque Cuisine).

Afterwards, Visi & Luis are our culinary hosts as we walk through the historic old district of San Sebastian to the private gastronomic society where Luis Irízar is its member of honor. Enjoy this rare invitation inside a traditional gastronomic society (called a txoko in the Basque language and a pillar of Basque social life). Here amongst friends, share an afternoon of imaginative home cooking, drinking and lively, multi-lingual conversation. (Meals: B, L)

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The lively Saturday market in the picturesque mountain town of Tolosa is reason enough to come to Northern Spain. There, alubias (beans) hold a place of honor in the pantheon of fresh produce which overflows the market stalls each week. Smoky, nutty cheeses such as Idiazabel are also on full display as are flowers, fresh basked breads, nuts and other area specialties.

We are joined in our morning market foray by Pello, a former Basque engineer who, after learning that his family’s pig-farming roots date back to at least 1575, re-dedicated his life to saving & developing a market for the region’s last remaining heritage breed, Euskal Txerria. Pello is very active in the Slow Food movement and many of the farmers at the market are friends & colleagues.

Pello invites us back to his family’s 18^th century stone farmstead, set high in the mountains above Tolosa, with breathtaking views of the valley below. See firsthand Pello’s rare Euskal Txerria pigs with their signature long, floppy ears. Pello joins us for home-hosted lunch that includes some of the sublime cured ham produced on his farm. Enjoy wine & conversation in equal measure around Pello’s cozy hearth. There’s no rush this afternoon and that is a good thing, because no one will want to leave! J

Gather this evening for an intimate celebration dinner at our hotel. (Meals: B, L, D)

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Transfers are arranged to the Bilbao airport for your return flights home. (Meals: B)

 

Included:                                           

• Our Bilbao-based, multilingual trip leader Kyle Hearn will accompany our travelers throughout Portugal & N. Spain. Kyle, a teacher and an anthropologist by training, is passionate about sharing the culture & traditions of this region and when not traveling, continues to share his insights through photography, sound recordings and blog posts
• Specialist guides, innovative chefs, master wine makers, artisan mask-makers, an erudite pig farmer, urban architects and other cultural ambassadors meet & accompany us throughout our journey, offering us unparalleled access into the living culture of these regions
• Culture Xplorers’ Signature Experiences listed in the itinerary
• Lodging: double occupancy in charming, boutique hotels and lodges loaded with local flavor, color & character. These include: restored urban townhouses, historic manor homes, renovated residences and charming country inns.
• Meals: breakfast & lunch daily, plus six (6) dinners during our sixteen day journey
• Private ground transportation throughout
• All entry fees to included museums, national parks, monuments and ruins
• Bottled water provided aboard our vehicles throughout the journey
• Airport pick-up and drop-off coordinated for any time on day of group’s arrival & departure
• Comprehensive pre-departure planning materials

Items not included and estimates:

• International air to Porto, Portugal, returning from Bilbao, Spain. Budget $1,000+ (coach)
• Approximately (9) meals during our sixteen-day journey. Budget $25+ per meal
• International departure tax in Bilbao. Note: most airlines now include this tax into the fare
• If you are traveling alone or opt for a single room, add $1,160 for 15 nights, $695 for 9 nights or $465 for 6 nights. Note: to avoid this fee, ask us to assign you a roommate.  If no roommate is available the single room upgrade must be charged.
• Tip to Culture Xplorers trip leader ($4 to $7/pp/day) and specialist guides ($3 to $6/pp/day)
• Traveler’s medical and emergency evacuation insurance (recommended)

Details:

• Maximum travelers: 12 (4 travelers minimum)
• Trip length: 7, 10 or 16 days, plus international travel
• Activity level: Active.  Participants must be able to walk comfortably and unassisted for up to one hour at a time & up to three hours per day on terrain that will include: cobblestones, flagstones, unpaved dirt & gravel roads, mountain footpaths and vineyards.